Strange, but true tales from a Canadian boy who got hooked on travelling while living in London.
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Rememberance Day 2006
On Rememberance Day, I went on a day trip to Stonhenge and Bath [pronounced BAAAAAAAAAAAth]. It was organised by BUNAC [The British eqivalent to SWAP]. I went with a few friends that I met through BUNAC. At 11am at Stonehenge, everyone observed 2 minutes of silence. It was pretty cool being at this ancient landmark and only listening to the wind.
Erin, Marissa, Tom and I at the rocks.
Afterwards, we bused to Bath. Bath is just a really, really, really, ridiculously pretty city. The city is founded around the only naturally-occurring hot springs in the United Kingdom. It was first documented as a Roman spa, although tradition suggests that it was founded earlier. It's very compact, walkable and situated on the River Avon.
Outside the baths. This eighteenth-century structure was sort of a museum to the orignal baths. There were relics, sculptures, reconstructions, original construction, infrastructure and of course, the hot springs themselves.
Inside the baths.
Chris, Marissa and Erin drinking the water. It actually tasted terrible but it was free from the Pump House Restaurant with our admission tickets into the baths.
We spent so much time in the baths we had little time to do anything else. We walked across the Palladian-style Pulteney bridge and along the river.
We all really wanted to go out when we got back to London [it was a Saturday night, after all]. But after returning to our respective flats, we all just crashed from playing tourist all day.
Michelle and I ventured out to 'the deer park' bright and early on Saturday [12:45 - we were bar hopping in Shoreditch the night before]. It was a beautiful, sunny day. We took the train from Waterloo to Richmond. It was fairly spontaneous so we weren't armed with maps or other reference materials. Richmond is a really pretty area.
There's a great high street and lots of greenspace. Apparently rich, white people live there. We followed the signs to 'Old Deer Park'. Old deer park looked like this:
Because why wouldn't the deer park have its own circus? I suggested that maybe Old Deer Park got its name when all the deer got the boot. Michelle insisted that the deer existed as she had read a recent article in Time Out. I asked one of the football players if he knew anything about the deer [Old Deer Park also had football fields]. He told us they were moved years ago to Richmond Park at the top of the hill. It was about a 20 minute walk.
The article said that there were so many deer in this park that they had to be routinely killed. We expected to see maybe one or two deer if we were lucky. We saw at least one hundred deer. It was so strange. They just wandered freely mostly in large groups throughout the park. Then something weird happened [and it was caught on film, how fortunate]...
Fear the deer.
From Saturday, 25 November to Monday, 27 November, I'll be in Barcelona. It's my first international flight alone, but I'm meeting a friend there.
Saturday 25 November - London Luton To Barcelona
flight 2265; dep. Sat 25 Nov 13:00 arr. Sat 25 Nov 16:15
Monday 27 November - Barcelona To London Stansted
flight 3036; dep. Mon 27 Nov 21:10 arr. Mon 27 Nov 22:30
I am having the most frustrating day. It just keeps getting more complicated.
Last week, my magnetic fob that opens the front door stopped working. Our flat is 'managed' [and I use the term loosely] by uber-incompetent letting agency, Vanet Estates. I spoke with Sheldon who referred me to Joanna last Friday. She told me she could drop one off. By Wednesday, it had not arrived. Brennon and I had been sharing the remaining one by locking it in the mailbox. When I got home from work last night, there was a dodgy looking eastern European man standing on the porch. I didn't think much of it and I opened the door and locked the fob back in the mailbox. When Brennon arrived home an hour later, the fob was gone.
At the moment, we have no way to enter the building. Apparently, Leah from Vanet is meeting me at 6pm on the front porch with a replacement and she'll order a second one. It remains to be seen. I pay way too much rent to be putting up with this BS. I actually miss Trasherella at Skylab. She may have been the epitome of 'white trash', but at least she was efficient in her work.
Tube fun [look up 'tube map' in google to find a diagram, too lazy to post it myself] - This morning, the Central Line [red] was not running to Ealing Broadway. It was only going to North Acton [one stop before EB]. An announcement said that I could go to Hanger Lane and take bus 83 to Ealing Broadway. I did and it worked out, but I arrived at work 30 minutes late.
I was trying to figure out the best way to get home after work. I realised I could take the District Line [green] from Ealing Broadway. It's slow but steady. I just checked the Transport for London site and apparently the District Line is closed from Mansion House to the end of the line and I need to go to Tower Hill! There was a 'fire alert' at Monument. This isn't the first 'fire alert' for Monument. It's a pretty useless station. Why not just let it burn down and close it for good?
Now I'm going to get creative. I'll take the District Line from Ealing Broadway to Mansion House. Then I can walk 5 minutes to Bank where I usually transfer from the Central Line to the DLR and I can continue as usual from there. Although, the way this day is going, I feel that I'll be changing my route again by 4:30.
An hour after I got to work, the fire alarm went off and I got to stand outside in the rain for a half hour. Good times.
So I checked the Transport for London website before I left work to get an update on the tube lines. The District Line had been upgraded to 'severe delays' due to emergency essential engineering works at Cannon Street. This meant that I could not take the Central or District lines home and they are by far the most direct. I knew I had to leave work early to make it back for 6 to meet Leah. So, I consulted with people at work and I took the 207 bus to Ealing Common Station on the Picadilly Line. Then I rode that to Green Park where I transfered to the Jubilee Line to Canary Wharf. When I got to the wharf, the DLR was INSANELY packed with bland business people so I decided to walk 10 minutes home. I arrived at 5:50. It took 1h20min which wasn't bad because my normal commute is 1h10m. I stood on the front porch waiting for Leah [remember, our fobs are rubbish so I CANNOT even enter the building]. She was late. I followed someone in to get warm. I waited in the lobby until 6:30. She was late. I called Joanna. She told me Leah was stuck in traffic [thanks for letting me know]. I got Leah's number and rang her. She apologised profusely. I told her to just ring me when she got here cuz I was going upstairs to make dinner. She showed up at about 6:45. She apologised. She moaned about traffic from Chelsea to Poplar. IS SHE NEW TO LONDON? WAS IT HER FIRST TIME IN RUSH HOUR?! WHAT A BLOODY IDIOT!!!! I KNEW TO LEAVE WORK EARLY AND I'M A FOREIGNER!!!! Cholo Maria.
Now we have one fob and I'm really tired from one messed up day.
I had another fun-filled, action packed weekend. Quinton [my job agent], jokes that going to work is my 'downtime'. But he promises not to tell my employer. He's pretty much right. But, that's what a working holiday is all about!
Guy Fawkes allegedly tried to blow up the Parliament Buildings on November 5th. 'Remember, remember the 5th of November. Gun powder, treason and PLOT.' For some reason, the crazy Brits decide to celebrate with fireworks ALL WEEKEND LONG.
On Friday, I went out to Camp Attack with Marissa, Francesa and Angelo. I'm supposed to have photos but Marissa hasn't sent them yet. We had a great time dancing on stage and meeting several new people. The night ended around 5 with a tragic mobile phone malfunction, but I partially recovered.
Naturally, I slept until 1 the next afternoon. Saturday was the evening of the semi-formal Guy Fawkes Boat Cruise. I only had a few hours in the afternoon before I had to get ready for the boat. I ran my new jacket [which I bought with birthday money] over to Canary Wharf for a little bit of tailoring. Then all of a sudden it was half four and I had to start getting ready to meet the girls at half 6. The cruise was put on by Florida State University [my first employer when I arrived in London]. In a high-class move, we opted to bring our own booze in water bottles. The tickets were 20 quid, after all. But it was so amazing to see all of London, from the Thames River, at night, over the course of only a few hours. We started at Embankment and went west to Battersea Park. The boat stopped outside the park where we watched the fireworks from the water. To watch the fireworks from with the park cost viewers 5 quid! We got a free show [kind of]. After the show we went east to Tower Bridge [which everyone thinks is London Bridge] and then back to the pier. The views were stunning and photos were plentiful.
You missed, Guy Fawkes.
Tower Bridge [NOT London Bridge - London Bridge is horrible.]
The Eye.
Alexis, Megan, Michelle and I.
I'll have a Doug sandwich on Lindseys with a side of pink.
On Sunday, I got up bright and early at 8am to day trip to Brighton with Erin. I have decided that Brighton may very well be my favourite place on Earth, at the moment. It was a beautiful fall day, sunny and 13 degrees. As we walked down the main street to the ocean, the sun was reflecting so strongly off the water, it was blindingly bright [in Brighton... haha]! The beach is a pebble beach but it didn't bother us terribly.
Erin and I on the beach.
We still lay down, basked in the sun and chatted. There are two piers: Brighton pier, a tacky, super-kitch funhouse of flashing lights, rides, music, games and greasy, delicious food and The West Pier that burned down at some point. We tried to play 'urban archeologists' to figure out what happened to it. Here's the answer c/o Wikipedia:
"The West Pier is a pier in Brighton. It was built in 1866 by Eugenius Birch and has been closed and deteriorating since 1975, awaiting renovation. The West Pier is one of only two Grade 1 listed piers in the UK, the other being Clevedon Pier. It was the second pier of Brighton, joining The Royal Suspension Chain Pier of 1823. Plans by the charity which now owns the pier – the West Pier Trust – to renovate the pier with help from the Heritage Lottery Fund were opposed by some local residents. The local media reported that a major concern was the impact of commercial operations on the shore which were apparently required to help fund the project. The Noble brothers – owners of the Palace Pier – joined the objectors, having originally been supporters of the restoration scheme (the 1996 Year of the Pier was launched from the Palace Pier). Their reported point of view was that subsidised rebuilding, were it to happen, would represent unfair competition. The West Pier on fire, March 28, 2003. Having already been cut off from the shore (partly deliberately, for safety reasons), the West Pier suffered a serious partial collapse on December 29, 2002 when a walkway connecting the concert hall and pavilion fell into the sea after being battered by storms. On January 20, 2003 a further collapse saw the destruction of the concert hall in the middle of the pier. On 28 March 2003 the pavilion at the end of the pier caught fire. Firefighters were unable to save the building from destruction because the collapsed walkway prevented them from reaching the end of the pier. The cause of the fire remains unknown. On May 12, 2003, another fire broke out, consuming most of what was left of the concert hall. Arson was suspected; the West Pier Trust refers to the fires as the work of "professional arsonists". On June 23, 2004 high winds caused the middle of the pier to completely collapse. The West Pier in January 2006, after the most recent collapse. Despite these setbacks, the West Pier Trust remained adamant that they would soon begin full restoration work."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/West_Pier
After about an hour of doing very little, we walked along the boardwalk and checked out all the kitchy souvenier stalls. Erin bought 3 pairs of earrings for one pound. I finally had my very first [expensive] fish & chips meal on a patio on the beach. After lunch, we wandered the narrow streets of an area called 'The Lanes'. The Lanes were originally a market area of the city so they're extremely narrow and compact. Afterwards, we went to the palace. The palace was built for Prince Regent (later King George IV) after his first visit in 1783. The palace looks quite striking in the middle of Brighton [surrounded by common British urban fabric], having a very Indian appearance on the outside.
After the pavillion, we went to the free Brighton Museum. There was an excellent display of surrealist furniture including Salvador Dali's couch in the form of Mae West's lips. There was even a miniature version of it in the kiddie room. Why must I end up in the kiddie room of every museum I visit? Brighton has quite the history. Despite being fashionalbe for royals in the 18th and 19th Century, in the 20th Century, it suffered all kinds of problems. Mental health patients were sent there in large quanties to recover from their illnesses naturally [in nature]. Nature is still thought to have a physiological healing effect according to some planning literature I read last year. There was poverty and large amounts of council housing was built in the form of two-floor terrace [row] houses. Those houses now appear to be gentrified and painted bright colours. Brighton was also devastated in the war. The beaches were closed and massive barbed wire barriers were erected on the beach to prevent invasion from the ocean. Underground bunkers were built in parks and playgrounds and schools often evacuated. Thousands of homes were destroyed or damaged. Thousands of people died or were injured. There were photographs, videos and audio narratives presented in the museum.
On a lighter note, as the sun began to set, we raced back to the beach with our inexpensive alcoholic beverages to enjoy the most amazing sunset I have ever seen. The ocean was at low tide and had receeded to reveal a wet sand base. As a result, all the colours in thy sky were also reflected on the ground. It was visually overwhemling. Then the fireworks started.
Erin and I enjoy a romantic sunset on the beach in Brighton.
Following sunset, the temperature dropped by about 20 degrees. We decided to explore the pier where we could be partially indoors. We walked through the casino/arcade and were tempted by the slot machines. Erin put a 10p coin into one machine but we weren't sure how to work it. The woman next us showed us what to do. We didn't follow. But the woman suggested we put in another 10p coin. We did. All of a sudden the machine starts flashing '8.00'. I asked the woman if that meant Erin had won 8 pounds. She confirmed it. I yelled at Erin to quit while she was ahead. She bought us dessert with her winnings.
We walked along the pier into the inky blackness of the night. There were rides, music and food stalls. However, there were very few people out on the pier that evening. For dinner, we enjoyed some of the best chicken fried rice ever. It was fresh. They grilled the rice, veggies, chicken and egg right in front of us.
Erin and I dining and dancing on the pier.
We left the pier after grabbing some donuts and a couple 'Belgian waffles on a stick' and headed for Kemptown. It's a trendy Annex-like area with great bars and shops. We enjoyed a couples of pints at the 'No Name' bar and reflected on the day. When we finished, it was about 9pm. We had planned to leave Brighton around 5pm so we could get back for Sunday Dinner with the FSU girls. However, Brighton was just so beautiful and so much fun that we had to pack in as much activity as possible.
When I got home at 11pm Sunday night, the fireworks started.
I'm still feeling a little rough from the weekend. It was so much fun, yet somewhat exhausting. This week at work, I'm working with the Planning Enforcement team. I'm covering for a woman who's on holiday. I think I might like it better than my job. The work is time-sensitive. There's more exposure to planning legislation. I get to liase with different people. And I feel like the work I'm doing actually matters.
This weekend, I'm day tripping yet again to Bath and Stonehenge. I'm going on an organised BUNAC trip and will be joined by Marissa, Erin, Chris and Tom. It should be a good time. Other than that, I'm trying so very hard not to make plans. I need some sleep!
Michelle is doing this '365' project where you take a photo of your day, every day, for one year and post it online. It's supposed to make you reflect on the events of your life for the past year. She selected this photo that represents the most bizarre night in London to date. The photo makes me laugh - a tough, urban alley way and a not-so-tough urban boy.
Michelle and I started the night together at a pub in this alley, the name escapes me. But it was so hard to get a beer because it was so busy that we left. On the way out, we ran into Alexis and Megan on the street. It was the first time I've run into people I know in London. It was weird, yet Toronto-familiar. We went to another small Soho pub. We stood outside drinking and we ran into more people I know - Andy and Suba. I met them during my first week in London. They were off to see Girls Aloud at The Astoria. I couldn't be arsed to pay 12 quid for the show [look, I'm proper British]! The pub closed so we moved to a bar on Old Compton Street. I was supposed to meet my friend Talim there, but we couldn't find him. At midnight, the bar closed so we went off to Covent Garden to find a bar that would be open late.
On the way, we passed the Astoria with it's massive queue. All of a sudden, Megan screamed. Then I screamed. Then everyone in the queue started screaming. It was total hysteria. You see, London has a problem with public urination. But until that night, no one had seen a girl do it. There was this girl on the pavement, squatting, doing a full frontal. Megan and I held each other quietly sobbing for the next 3 blocks or so.
We went to O'Niell's on Great Queen Street. At this bar, we met a group of crazy Scandanavian businessmen aged 27 - 60 from Oslo and Stockholm. They were impressed that we had been to Stockholm. They were quite the characters. The old one [the 60 year old] did 'The Steve' with Megan. Named after Steven Fogal, it involves kneeling on the dancefloor, then bending all the way back at the knees so your back touches the floor. We couldn't believe it. It was so shocking.
Finally, around 3am, I heard from Talim. He had been at a different bar and he was clearly quite drunk. He asked if I could meet him outside the Dominion Theatre. My night was winding down so I went to go meet him. I needed to yell at him for ditching me. When I arrived, he wasn't there. I rang him and he told me to go to his friend's place around the corner. I found the address and arrived at the most stunningly beautiful Soho loft in the world [haha]. Talim was so wasted he didn't know how I ended up there. He thought it was just some coincidence that I found my way to the same afterparty... in London... right...
I took a tour of the 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom, 2-floor loft, but then the party got pretty dodgy so I had to leave [my momma didn't raise no FOO].
About a week and a half ago [too busy to post!], Marissa and I went to Canterbury. We went mainly to the the oldest Gothic cathedral in the UK, that I studied briefly while at UofT. We hopped on a bus bright and early Sunday morning and set out for the 2-hour journey via coach. It was a miserable day but we made the best of it with colourful umbrellas. When we got off the bus, I was surprised at all the high street stores in such a small city [150,000] - h&m, topshop, and so on. It took 6 million people in Toronto to get an h&m! This town must get a lot of tourists. The main street was fully pedestrianised with heavy foot traffic. The buildings were so beautiful done primarily in a proper British tudor style.
We set out wandering the streets. We found a farmer's market at which we weren't allowed to dine. The restaurant was completely empty but we were told they were full. It was suspicious. We saw the old entrance gates from the former fortified city as well. Finally, at noon, the cathedral opened.
GAP... oh, and UK's oldest gothic cathedral... :)
The Canterbury Cathedral.
We spent about two hours wandering the cathedral. I've never actually been inside one. I've just seen a couple thousand photos [I'm not exaggerating, am I Anna?] It was MASSIVE and since it's so early in the Gothic period, it's a smaller example of the style. Insane. This is the ribbed vaulting of the nave.
A view from the apse right through the cathedral to the west facade.
Marissa and I chilling in the cloister.
After the cathedral, we went to the Roman Museum. It was very silly, but we got a student discount. It was in a basement. The highlight were some original Roman foundations that predated the British occupation. The rest of the 'museum' was kind of a joke. The descriptive text was all on paper printed off a computer. There were old school mannequins that acted out various scenes of daily Roman life. It looked like a budget master's thesis or something. As we played with the tesserae [glass mosiac tiles] in the children's area, we overheard a man exclaim that it was the best museum he'd ever been in. We had to cover our mouths to avoid laughing out loud.
Next we went for hot chocolate and 'brown sauce'. I'm still not sure what this brown sauce is all about. I don't know when it's appropriate to eat it, or why anyone does. Its ingredients remain a mystery... I mean.. BROWN SAUCE... What is appetising about that?
We tried to go to 'The Tales of Canterbury' exhibit. But we weren't exactly sure what it was and although the guy at the front desk was very passionate about it, we passed as the student price was still 7 quid.
After a spot of shopping, we went for dinner at 'Cafe Latria' [above]. After a day in the rain, we wanted a hot meal in a cozy environment. We sat on the upper floor, by the window of this charming tudor building. We had a delicious soup and sandwich.
It was definitely nice to escape London for the day.
